Below are a few simple soldering tips and/or best practices that can help any stained glass artist or hobbyist to achieve the best results.
1. Prepare the glass for soldering
Before you start the soldering process, it is important to prepare the glass. The best way to start is to clean the glass to remove any fingerprints, oil or dirt or any residue. You can simply use a mild soap and water solution or any glass cleaner.
2. Position your glass pieces for soldering
The best way to start is to use a glass cutter and cut the glass pieces from whatever pattern you decide to use. The goal is for the pieces to fit together tightly. Once you have the entire pattern ready to go, the edges that you want to solder should be wrapped in copper foil.
By properly fitting the pieces together, it will reduce the amount of solder that you use and will create stronger joints. You can then trim and then adjust the pieces as needed and be careful not to force them together which could lead to breakage.
3. Apply Flux to the Joints and seams
Next you should apply flux to the joints and seams. Flux is a liquid that helps the solder flow smoothly and evenly over the glass. Flux removes the oxide layer and helps to increase the “wetting” of the solder which will help the solder to flow more efficiently.
4. Choose the right soldering tools
It is very important for you to choose right soldering tools and equipment to successfully create a stained glass piece. We would recommend that you Invest in a high-quality soldering iron with variable temperature control. Different projects may require different temperatures, so having this flexibility is invaluable. Additionally, choose a fine, pointed tip for intricate work and a broader tip for larger projects.
However, for most stained glass hobbyists, the Hakko FX601-02 Adjustable Soldering Iron is a great choice because it is durable and affordable. It is very flexible for most projects because of the temperature controller and the small size tip. It is also much lighter in comparison to other irons so that your hand won’t get tired nearly as quickly as some of the other irons.
5. Inspect the joints of your stained glass piece
Once you have finished soldering your stained glass piece, it is important to inspect the joints and your projects. If the joints are strong enough, the glass piece should hold together nicely.
6. Try to avoid some of the more common soldering defects
There are some common soldering defects that can occur when soldering stained glass.
Solder Bridging
One of the more common soldering defects is called bridging. Bridging will occur when there is an excessive amount of solder, and it flows over the edges of the glass and then creates a bridge between the two pieces of glass.
The best way to avoid bridging is to make sure not to use too much solder to the joint and/or apply too much heat to the solder.
While some bridging may create stronger joints, if you are unhappy with your piece, you can usually add a bead or just one drop of solder to fix the bridge between the two solder lines. Touch both edges of the soldering iron tip to each of the solder lines you are bridging.
Solder isn’t hot enough
If your solder isn’t hot enough and it doesn’t melt completely, it will not form a strong bond with the glass. The best way to fix this is to make sure that your soldering iron is hot enough and that you are applying enough heat to the joint.
Excessive Solder:
If you use too much solder it will lead to solder leakage and then the joints will be too weak. Try to apply just enough solder to cover the seams without an excessive buildup.
Overheating:
Overheating the glass will invariably lead to cracks or even shattered pieces. Use the lowest effective temperature on your soldering iron, and work in short, controlled bursts to avoid overheating.
Below are a few additional tips for soldering stained glass:
Therefore, the question remains – when is it time to purchase a new soldering iron?
Below are the some of the key indicators that it’s time to replace your soldering iron:
1. You purchased a low-quality soldering iron
Similar to any piece of equipment, if you purchased a high-quality soldering iron from the start, the soldering iron would perform better and last longer. A less-expensive, lower-quality iron will not transfer the heat properly, which will hinder the soldering process as well as the desired outcome of the job.
2. The heating element stops working
When the heating element stops working, then it no longer heats up. If this happens with your soldering iron, you can first check with the supplier to see if they have the correct heating element for the iron. And then replace the part(s) accordingly.
However, if you have a less expensive soldering iron and the heating element stops working then you will have to replace the entire iron as it probably won’t have a replacement part.
3. The soldering iron tip is frozen or corroded into the iron barrel
The soldering iron tip is the part of the iron that comes into direct contact with the components that you’re working on. Over time, the tip can become corroded or oxidized which would decrease the ability of the soldering iron to transfer heat properly and you need to replace the tip. However, if the soldering iron tip is frozen or corroded to the point that it is stuck in the iron barrel and it can’t be removed, then it’s time to purchase a new soldering iron.
4. The powder cord is broken
When using your soldering iron, the powder cord is bent, twisted, and exposed to heat on a regular basis. Over time, the cord can become brittle or damaged which would lead to exposed wires which are not only ineffective but dangerous. And the soldering iron will stop working altogether, yet another indication to purchase a new one.
5. The repairs of the soldering iron are more frequent
If your soldering iron needs to be repaired on a regular basis, it can become very expensive. Or maybe you find yourself replacing some of the soldering iron parts more frequently. Both would indicate that the iron is no longer functional and then purchasing a better, more reliable iron would be the most practical choice.
6. The solder joints are no longer reliable
If your solder joints are weak and no longer reliable, it can cause you to revisit your work more frequently. This is not only a waste of time and energy but can also impede the outcome of your job. Both are indicators that your soldering iron isn’t working properly and it’s time to purchase a new one.
If you maintain and care for your soldering iron properly, it should ultimately last a long time. However, when the iron stops working or any of the above signs occur, then it’s time to purchase a new soldering iron.
]]>What Are the Metals Used to Make Solder?
Solder is a metal alloy and is typically made mostly of tin plus one to three additional metals such as lead, copper, silver, or antimony. Additional metals are added to pure Tin to either change the melting point or strengthen the alloy.
The exact composition of the solder will vary depending on the application and/or project that you are doing.
The most common types of solder are the following:
Tin-Lead Solder:
Tin-lead solder is one of the most common types of solder that is used in electronic and industrial applications. It is made of a combination of tin and lead – the most often used solder alloys are 60/40: 60%t tin/40% lead and 63/37: 63% tin/37% lead.
For stained glass applications, 50/50 solder: 50% tin/50% lead is also a popular choice.
Lead-Free Solder:
Due to landfill concerns, lead is one of many substances that have been restricted globally. There are a wide assortment of lead-free solders that are counterparts to the lead solders and are equally effective. Common lead-free alloys are Tin-Copper and Tin-Copper-Silver.
As mentioned above, there are both lead and lead-free variations of solder. Stained-glass applications mostly use a solid solder wire (either lead or lead-free) as well as an external flux. Lead-free solders typically require a higher melting point than lead solders:
50% Tin/ 50% Lead
|
361 - 413 degrees F |
60% Tin/ 40% Lead | 361 - 372 degrees F |
AQ Lead Free Alloy | 403 - 453 degrees F |
99.3% Tin /0.7% Copper | 441 - 441 degrees F |
The Forms of Solder
There are several forms of solder that are available. The form of solder that you choose depends on the application.
1. Solder Wire – Wire solder is used for hand-soldering parts using a hand-held soldering iron.
2. Solder Bar – Solder bar comes in ingots, bars or sticks for melting in a solder pot. Pots are used for dip soldering components or on conveyorized wave solder lines.
3. Solder Paste – Solder paste is generally used for circuit board assembly applications where the paste is stenciled onto a PCB, micro miniature electronic components are robotically placed into the wet paste, and then reflowed in a conveyorized oven.
4. Solder Foil, Ribbon and Preforms – used for advanced manufacturing methods.
How Does Soldering Work?
Soldering is the process of heating assembly parts to flow molten solder into a joint between the two parts. The parts are heated to 100° - 200°F above the melting point of the solder so that the solder becomes molten and flows, creating a solder joint.
Which Flux Is Best For Soldering?
Flux is a chemical metal cleaning agent that helps the solder to “wet” to the base metals, preventing the molten solder from oxidizing during the bonding process.
Flux comes in four main families which are inorganic or organic acid water-soluble, no clean resin and natural rosin. Again, the type of flux you use depends on the metal surfaces being joined and your assembly process.
If you aren’t sure which type of solder is best for your job, please contact our technical service team. They would be happy to help you!
]]>Below are the essential items necessary to effectively solder stained glass:
1. Soldering Iron
The soldering iron is the most important tool that you need to solder stained glass. The soldering iron is used to melt the solder and to fuse the stained glass pieces together. As with any new tool or piece of equipment, it is important to get a high-quality soldering iron to make the soldering process successful and increase its longevity.
A soldering iron that has a temperature control is always recommended as you can adjust the heat to the right temperature for your project. Look for an iron that has a comfortable grip which can make it easier for you to handle while soldering.
2. Solder
Solder is a metal alloy that is used to join metal parts together. Solder comes in different variations, but for stained glass, the best choice is a solid-core wire solder. However, you will need to choose the solder that works best for your project or piece.
Solder is usually made of tin and one or two other metals such as lead, copper, or silver. Solder comes in both lead and lead-free variations. Stained glass uses solid solder with an external flux.
The most often used solder for stained glass are a 50/50 solder: 50% tin/50% lead or 60/40 mix of tin and lead. 60/40 solder is most often used in copper foil assembly, specifically copper foiled pieces. Because it can make a flat seam more readily, 50/50 solder works well for copper foiled pieces as well as lead came pieces. You can also choose a lead-free variation as a safer alternative. For jewelry, suncatchers, gift boxes, or other items that might come into contact with your hands, lead-free solder is the safer choice.
3. Flux
Flux is the chemical solution that is used to clean and join the metals. It helps the solder flow with the copper foil or came. It is placed on the joint before the soldering begins to create a strong bond and hold.
Flux comes in either a paste or liquid form and you will need to find a flux that works with your solder. Flux comes in different forms including organic acid water-soluble, inorganic, no-clean or rosin. All flux types have some amount of acid and will need to be cleaned when you finish soldering. The best flux for your stained glass project needs to be strong enough to clean the oxides but won’t attack the stained glass pieces. Most stained glass fluxes are water-soluble organic or inorganic acids.
4. Brass Wool or Sponge
Brass wool or a sponge specifically made for soldering is important to have on-hand to help to while you solder to help preserve your soldering iron tips. When you solder a stained glass piece, you need to apply solder throughout the process or project. However, before adding any solder to your soldering iron, you need to clean the tip with dry brass wool or a slightly damp brush to remove oxides and re-tin the tip. This needs to be repeated throughout the soldering process and is called re-tinning.
If you decide to use a soldering stand, they usually come with dry brass wool and/or a solder sponge for the re-tinning process.
5. Flux Applicator or Brush
A flux brush or applicator is used to apply the flux on the areas to be joined.
6. Heat Resistant Surface
You will need a flat, burn-resistant surface to work on your soldering project. A piece of plywood can work as a surface as well.
7. Gloves and Mask
If you are using leaded solder, it is important to wear gloves at a minimum. A mask and safety glasses are recommended to protect from all flux fumes and solder spatter.
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If your solder isn’t melting, then it is nearly impossible to get a proper flow for your project.
There are a few reasons why your solder isn’t melting, and it could be a very simple fix or it might be time to replace your soldering iron.
Below are 5 reasons why your solder isn’t melting:
1. Soldering Iron Isn’t Hot Enough
If the soldering iron isn’t hot enough, then the solder won’t melt as it should. Make sure to warm up your soldering iron before you start your stained glass project. It needs to be hot enough to help flow the molten solder through the seams.
The most successful soldering tip temperatures for stained glass are 700°-850°F for leaded solder and 800°-1,000°F for lead-free solder.
2. Using the right amount of flux
If you’re using the wrong flux or even too much or too little, it can inhibit the solder from melting. Try putting just enough flux that it wets the seams and allows the solder to melt and flow as it should. You want a flux that is strong enough will clean any remaining dirt or oxides without ruining the stained glass.
A gel flux can work really well with stained glass projects.
3. The tips are dirty or damaged
If your soldering iron tip is either dirty or damaged, it will stop the iron from transferring heat and therefore the solder won’t melt. If the tip is damaged, then it will need to be replaced.
If the soldering iron tip is still generating some heat, than the tip should be tinned or cleaned. Make sure to remove all the contaminants on the tip so the iron will heat up and your solder will then melt properly.
4. Make sure to use fresh high-quality solder
Not only is it important to choose the right solder, but make sure that it is one that is high-quality.
The best solder for stained glass is a 50/50 solder: 50% tin/50% lead which stays liquid the longest and generally has a melting point of 361° - 413° F. This solder tends to work best for copper foiled pieces.
You can also use 60/40 solder: 60% tin/40% lead which works well for stained glass. In general, the higher ratio that tin is to lead, the easier the solder can flow at a lower temperature.
If you’re worried about using lead, there are lead-free solder alloys that can work well with stained glass but will require a little more heat.
5. Soldering Iron is broken and needs to be replaced
If your soldering iron isn’t heating up to the right temperature to melt the solder, then it could be broken. If you have cleaned your iron thoroughly, including the tip of the iron and it still doesn’t heat, it might be time to replace your soldering iron.
If you have a more expensive soldering iron, you might just need a replacement part. However, if you are using a less expensive iron and the heat stops working, you will probably need to replace it.
]]>Depending on the soldering iron that you’re using, there are a few things to look out for to determine whether you need to simply replace the iron or a part.
Below are a few reasons why your soldering iron isn’t heating:
You need a new heating element
The most common reason that your soldering iron isn’t heating correctly is that you need to replace the heating element. The heating elements in your soldering iron are made of resistance wires that wind around the metal spool. If the heating element fails, the iron can’t produce heat and you therefore won’t be able to solder.
If this is the case with your soldering iron, check to see if your iron has replaceable elements. If so, check with your supplier to see if they have the right heating element for your specific iron.
If you are using a less expensive soldering iron and it stops heating, you will most likely need to replace the entire iron since is unlikely to have a replacement part.
The electrical outlet is broken
If the electrical circuit isn’t working, then the soldering iron won’t work properly. If there is a break in the electrical cord or connection, your soldering iron won’t produce heat. This could result in either a bad or faulty connection or the heating element fails.
To see if this is the issue, make sure that your soldering iron’s plug outlet is working. If the outlet is fine and you can’t see any wires that are disconnected, then you will need to replace the heating element.
Conversely, if the electrical outlet is faulty, then you need to fix or use another outlet. If the new outlet works and your iron heats up, then this would be the cause of the iron failure.
There is an air cavity inside the iron barrel
If the tip of the iron is pulled out so that it has a longer than necessary reach, it can leave an air cavity inside the iron. This, in turns, would cause a poor heat transfer and could even overheat the iron to the point where it stops working.
The tips are damaged or oxidized
Your soldering iron might stop transferring heat correctly because the tip is damaged or oxidized. If the tip has a crack or hole on the plating, then the tip won’t heat up all the way and will need to be replaced.
However, if the tip is still generating some heat and is just dirty, the tip should be cleaned and re-tinned. You will need to remove the contaminants so that the soldering iron can properly generate heat. A proper cleaning might just be the fix and your soldering iron will start to heat properly.
You should also look inside the iron barrel to see if there is any kind of visible damage or that the tip simply needs to be replaced.
Your soldering iron should always heat up quickly. However, if it doesn’t heat up properly or isn’t providing a successful soldering process, then something is wrong and needs to be evaluated.
]]>If the tips aren’t maintained properly or become oxidized, it will make the soldering process that much harder and unreliable. And will eventually ruin your iron.
Below are some recommendations on how to clean soldering iron tips to keep them in great shape:
Keep the soldering iron tips clean
It is important to keep the tips of your soldering iron clean. It will not only help prolong the life of the tips but will make the stained-glass soldering process more efficient. Simply use a damp or slightly wet sponge to remove the oxides and flux. You can also use a brass wool sponge tip cleaner to help keep the tips clean and shiny.
Tin the tips constantly
Tinning the tips is essentially coating the tip of your soldering iron with a little solder. This helps to preserve the plating on the tip by creating a barrier between the tips and the air around it.
To tin your tips, first heat up the soldering iron to the proper operating temperature for your solder or project. Then wipe the tip on a slightly damp sponge or dry brass wool to clean it. Then apply a small bead of solder to the tip ending and wipe off any extra solder onto a damp sponge.
Remove tips to prevent them from freezing
It is important to store your soldering iron properly to help extend the life of the iron as well as keep the tips performing properly. Just loosen the screw or the nut that holds the tip in place before putting the iron away, then remove the tip at least once a week. This will prevent the fumes from corroding the barrel, causing the tips to “freeze” in place.
When the tip has been removed, clean the inside of the iron barrel (tip mount) with a wire brush and wipe the shank of the tip clean.
Re-tin the tips before unplugging your iron or shutting down for the day.
Reactivate the tips if they turn black
If the tip of your iron is dark or heavily oxidized, it is time to reactivate the tips. This can be done by gently rubbing the tip surfaces with a Hexacon or Weller tip scrubbing bar or steel wool.
Then you will need to tin the tips right away with a fresh solder coating. Be careful not to break through the tip plating layer.
Turn your iron down when not using it
When you are not using your soldering iron, turn it off for not only safety purposes but for the life of your heating element. Further, if you are not working on your project for at least ten minutes, turn the iron off or turn the temperature down low as excessive heat is the enemy of the soldering iron and can destroy it.
This is especially important if you don’t have an external control that will automatically turn your temperature down when you aren’t using it for more than five to ten minutes.
When the tip is worn out
The tips of the iron are meant to be changed periodically and are easy to replace. Once the plating layer of the tip has worn through, it will become pitted and no longer properly transfer heat. Make sure to buy a new replacement tip that is designed for your soldering iron.
]]>Solder is usually made of tin and one or two other metals such as lead, copper, or silver. Solder comes in both lead and lead-free variations. Stained glass uses solid solder with an external flux.
There are three different alloys or families of solder that are most often used for stained glass.
The 3 most popular solder choices for stained glass:
1. 50/50 solder: 50% tin/50% lead
50/50 solder tends to produce a flatter seam around the joint. This solder stays liquid the longest and has a melting range of 361° - 413° F. Because it can make a flat seam more readily, this solder works well for copper foiled pieces as well as lead came pieces.
2. 60/40 solder: 60% tin/40% lead
60/40 solder is most often used in copper foil assembly, specifically copper foiled pieces. The melting range is 361° - 372°F which gives you a little more time to spread the solder evenly before it solidifies.
In general, the higher the ratio of tin to lead, the easier that the solder will flow at lower temperatures.
3. Lead free solder variations
Lead-free solder has become increasingly popular as there aren’t any health risks associated with lead-free that might occur with regular leaded solder.
Many like to use lead-free solder when the stained-glass piece being made is in an area where children or adults could touch the item, such as jewelry, a jewelry box or a suncatcher. Therefore, any stained glass project that is handled or worn, such as kaleidoscopes, jewelry, or any giftware should be made with lead- free solder.
The finish on lead-free solder can be a little grainier than either 50/50 or 60/40 and you will need more heat to flow it. If you use a soldering iron that requires different tips for different temperatures, you will need to use a hotter tip.
Lead-free solders have higher melting points than some lead-bearing solder alloys, about 40 to 70° F higher than 60/40 solder.
Solder Alloy | Solid Liquid |
AQ Lead Free Alloy | 403° F - 453° F |
99.3% Tin / 0.7% Copper | 441° F - 441° F |
Tin/Copper/Silver: | 418° F - 440° F |
60% Tin / 40% Lead | 361° F - 372° F |
50 % Tin / 50 % Lead | 361° F - 413 ° F |
Whichever solder alloy you choose, make sure to choose a flux designed for either copper or came lead.
There are many different solder alloys that you can use for your stained glass project. You can practice with a few different types until you find the one that is best for you and your project.
]]>Sometimes it’s perfect and other times, it isn’t quite what you envisioned and there are a few soldering issues that need to be fixed. While it can be disappointing, there are some ways to fix these mistakes without starting the whole project from scratch.
Below are some common copper foil soldering mistakes and a few suggestions to help fix these mistakes:
The Solder is Leaking Through to the Other Side of the Copper Foil Piece
Below are a few reasons why the solder might leak through:
1. If the soldering iron is too hot, it could cause the solder to melt too quickly, and you should check that your iron isn’t set too high. The iron should run anywhere from 700 to 1,000 degrees 700- 850°F for leaded solder and 800°-1,000°F for lead-free solder.
2. If you cut the pieces too wide, the solder will invariably leak through. Try to make the pieces just wide enough to fit a thin layer of solder.
3. If you put too much liquid flux in between the gaps, it will leak through as well.
4. When you are soldering, if you move too slowly, all the solder could melt in one place and then leak.
5. Having the right solder and flux can prevent leaking. 60/40 solder flows more easily than 50/50 solder. A gel flux can work well with stained glass and prevent less leaking.
Some recommendations to help when the solder has leaked through:
Try to tack solder (or place a small amount of solder) each joint and check that your pieces are held together in one place. Lift the entire piece carefully and place a damp towel underneath the piece while you are soldering. This can help cool the solder and prevent it from leaking to the other side.
The Solder Lines Are Too Thick
Another common soldering mistake is when the solder lines are too thick, and you want to be able to smooth it out to correct it.
Some recommendations to help:
While some people try to use sandpaper to help with thick solder lines, it really isn’t strong enough to smooth out the solder. The best thing you can do is to slow down when you are soldering so that the solder can melt. If your iron can’t get hot enough even when you slow down the pace, a larger tip can help. This can allow more heat to spread evenly throughout the piece. Also, check that the tip is clean before doing so.
Corroded Copper Foil Issues
If you are working on a piece and must stop half-way through the project, there is a chance your copper foil will become corroded.
The best way to fix this is easy. Only start a project when you have the time to complete the soldering all the way through. If you do have to stop, make sure to wipe the flux off with a towel. Then wash down the seams with soap and water to help remove all the flux so it doesn’t corrode the copper foil.
While these are only a few of the issues that might occur when soldering stained glass, the best thing you can do is practice. The more you practice, the better your piece and soon enough soldering stained glass will become second nature to you!
And, of course, having the right stained glass soldering equipment, solder and flux can make the whole process even smoother.
]]>Below are 6 steps to help you learn how to solder stained glass much more easily:
1. Have your supplies ready before you start
Before you even start to solder your copper foil for stained glass, get your supplies ready.
You will need the following: Solid Solder Wire, liquid flux, your soldering iron, a flux applicator or q- tips, damp rag or sponge, gloves if you are using leaded-solder.
2. Get your glass pieces positioned for soldering
First, cut the glass pieces from the pattern using a glass cutter. If the cutting is accurate, the pieces will fit together tightly. After cutting the entire pattern out, the edges that you want to solder should be wrapped in copper foil.
After foiling the pieces, assemble and stake them together which will hold them together tightly during soldering.
3. Apply Flux to the Joints and Seams
With a flux brush, apply a small amount of flux to all of the joints and seams. Try not to add too much flux otherwise it could splatter during heating and create bubbles in your seams.
4. Heat Iron to a temperature that melts the solder
Turn on your soldering iron and heat it to a temperature that will flow the molten solder into the seams down towards the back side. Common soldering tip temperatures are 700°-850°F for leaded solder and 800°-1,000°F for lead-free solder. While soldering, periodically wipe the iron tip with a slightly damp rag or sponge and re-tin the tip with fresh solder.
Place the solder along the flat side of the iron tip and lightly touch your iron to the copper foil seam. You might hear a sizzle and then you will see a very small solder puddle just under the tip. Move the soldering iron smoothly across the copper foil seam (try not to stop and start) while you feed solder along the tip.
If you hold the soldering iron in your left hand, it is easier to work left to right and vice versa.
5. Keep an eye on your solder seam
Keep an eye on your solder seam. If it is flat, try to slow down and use a little more solder. If the solder is pouring out too quickly, speed up. If you want to use a U-channel came to edge the piece, leave a little space of your foil free from the solder at the edge of the panel. If you just want to tin your edges, finish up the seams up to the edge.
Once you have finished one side of the piece, turn it over. This side just needs a little flux at the seams and then solder just as you did on the other side.
6. Touching up
If you have different spots or areas that need to be touched up, try using the touch and lift method. Take your iron and touch down until your tip touches the glass. You can then see the solder melting on either side of the iron tip. When this occurs, lift the iron right up. You can even do this along the seam.
Then, of course, before turning your soldering iron off wipe and re-tin the tip. Unplug it and put it away until you want to use it again. Periodically remove the soldering tip to avoid flux corroding it permanently into place.
Soldering copper foil for stained glass takes time and practice. Once you get the hang of it, you will have the process down in no time!
If you have any questions about soldering copper foil or any other questions, please contact our technical support team. They would be happy to help and provide you with additional stained glass soldering tips!
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Flux, due to its activators, is also a wetting agent. Not only does it get rid of the dirt and extra film, but it helps increase the wetting of the solder so it can flow much more smoothly.
Why Do You Need To Use Flux for Stained Glass?
Flux has different functions in the soldering process: it helps to clean the metal by removing the contaminants and oxides, it keeps your soldering area free of oxides until the solder melts and covers the attachment area and its wetting agent helps to spread the solder correctly over the surface.
How Do You Choose the Right Flux?
Of course, choosing the right stained glass soldering flux is important to making the best solder joint for your particular job or project. Flux comes in many different forms: inorganic or organic acid water-soluble, rosin, or no clean.
Any flux you choose will have some acid and the flux will need to be cleaned or removed after you are finished soldering. The best flux for your stained glass project should be strong enough to clean any remaining oxides, but not attack the stained glass pieces after.
What is the Best Flux for Stained Glass?
The best flux for stained glass is a gel flux that has a thick enough liquid to wet and shine the solder seams when you hand-solder copper sheet metal or copper foil between the stained glass pieces.
For more information, click here
You also want to choose a stained glass soldering flux that won’t stain the copper before you have a chance to wipe it clean when soldering.
That is why our own Classic 100 Gel Flux is ideal for stained glass. It makes the soldering process that much easier. It is the perfect flux for soldering stained glass copper and copper sheet metal.
The Classic 100 Gel Flux does the following:
By using this type of flux, it will make the soldering process that much easier and will help your stained glass project look top notch.
Just like most flux, after you have finished your soldering, make sure to clean off any flux residue that is left over.
For stained glass, our own Classic 100 Gel Flux is ideal to get you the ultimate soldering experience.
]]>Below are 7 tips on how to use a soldering iron to extend its life (the picture shown is an example of a soldering iron that has NOT been maintained properly):
1. Buy a High- Quality Soldering Iron
As with most equipment, if you buy a high-quality soldering iron from the start, it will last longer and perform better. An inexpensive iron will interfere with the heat transfer which will make the soldering work more complicated and the outcome less desirable.
Look for a reputable brand that has good reviews like the Hakko FX601-02 Adjustable Soldering Iron:
Click here for more information
Or the Weller W100P3 Heavy-Duty 3-Wire Soldering Iron:
Click here for more information
2. Turn Off The Soldering Iron When Finished Or Use An External Control
It is important, not only for safety purposes, but for the life of your soldering iron to turn it off when you have completed your task. While this might seem like common sense, you might leave it on in-between jobs and that can damage the tool as well as whatever it is you are working on.
If your iron does not have a temperature control, you might consider buying an external control to turn your temperature down to idle (warm temperature) when you aren’t soldering for more than five minutes.
3. Run Your Soldering Iron At the Lowest Possible Temperature
It is really important to run your soldering iron at the lowest possible temperature to get your job completed. If you are run it at ultra-high temperatures, it can ruin the iron and is truly the enemy of the soldering iron’s life.
4. Keep the Soldering Iron Cord Safe & Clean
The power cord is one of the more sensitive parts of the soldering iron and needs stay clean and stored correctly away from where you work. If the cord comes into contact with a hot iron, it will not only damage the cable, but could harm the iron to the point where it no longer works.
5. Adjust The Temperature When Changing Solder Types
Each type or variation of solder requires a different temperature to perform optimally. Whenever you switch solder, it’s important to adjust your soldering iron to the right temperature. Otherwise, it can put too much pressure on the iron and ruin it.
6. Keep your Soldering Station & Tips Clean
The most critical and sensitive part of the soldering iron is the tip. Therefore, you need to make sure the iron’s tip is clean whenever you store it. By properly cleaning it with a sponge or stainless steel wool, it can help prolong the life of the tip. The same principal goes for the entire iron. Make sure this isn’t any unwanted material that is sticking to your iron as this can affect the performance of the iron and eventually destroy it.
7. Be Careful When Changing/Replacing Parts
If you keep the components of your solder iron in good condition, they should last a long time. However, some parts such as the tips and/or heating elements might need replacing. If you do need to replace either, make sure to look at the manual or directions to understand how it gets attached to your iron. If they aren’t attached correctly, it can ruin the iron and its’ performance.
If you take proper care of your soldering iron, it should last you many years. However, there will be a time when you need to replace it and it’s important to do so at that time. An iron that is damaged or overused could lead to a fire or a hazardous accident so be mindful to consistently inspect your iron before using it.
If you can't decide which soldering iron is best for your application or job, please contact our technical support team for guidance.
]]>Therefore, any stained glass project that is handled, such as kaleidoscopes, jewelry, jewelry gift boxes or any giftware should be made with lead- free solder. There are many solid, well-performing lead-free solder variations that can make the transition that much easier.
While the price for lead-free solder alloys tends to be higher than regular solder, it should be used for any project that is either handled or worn since it is much safer. The higher price of lead-free is partially offset by the lower density. Lead-free is 14% less dense than 60/40 which means you get 14% more feet of wire in a one-pound spool!
How does lead-free solder differ from regular leaded solder?
The biggest difference is that lead-free solder doesn’t have any lead. The most popular leaded solder that is used in copper foil work is 60% tin, 40% lead (60/40). The other type of regular solder is 50% tin, 50% lead (50/50) which takes a little more time to set up than the standard 60/40 due to its higher melting point.
The finish on lead-free solder is a little grainier than either 50/50 or 60/40 and you need more heat to flow it.
In fact, there are lead-free replacement solder products available for every leaded solder application.
Lead Free-Solder Uses Higher Temperatures than Leaded Solder
When using lead-free solder, you’ll need to use a higher temperature to solder or increase the contact time. If you use a soldering iron that requires different tips for different temperatures, you will need to use a hotter tip.
Lead-free solder usually melts about 40 to 70 degrees higher than 60/40 solder.
Lead-free Solders tend to have higher melting points that leader solders:
AQ Lead Free Alloy: 403 - 453 degrees F
99.3% Tin /0.7% Copper: 441 - 441 degrees F
Tin/Copper/Silver: 418 - 440 degrees F
60% Tin/40% Lead: 361 -372 degrees F
Try to practice soldering with different temperatures until you get a feel for the lead-free solder.
Are there any other benefits to lead-free solder other than health concerns?
There are also environmental concerns when using leaded-solder. Lead-free solder is not toxic to the environment. Leaded-solder can find its way into the soil, water and even air.
Once the lead is in water bodies, it affects the marine life and people living around these water forms.
Some of the other benefits of lead-free solder are the following:
Most lead-free solder is available is all solder forms, including solder paste, cored wire solder, solid wire and solder bars.
While lead-free soldering takes a little more time, effort and maybe even some practice, it is certainly worth minimizing the health risk. Particularly in giftware or jewelry.
And, of course, whether you are working with leaded or lead-free solder, make sure to wash your hands thoroughly after you finish your soldering work.
If you are unsure of which application of leaded-solder to use for your stained glass project, our customer service team is happy to help you.
]]>Below are 8 tips and tricks that can make soldering much easier and expedite the learning process.
1. Find a high-quality soldering iron
Soldering requires the use of a soldering iron, which is a hand tool that heats up to transfer heat into the parts being joined. While you don’t have to get the most expensive brand, it is worth spending the money to make sure you have an efficient and high-quality tool.
2. Choose the right tip
Soldering irons usually come with switchable tips to give you a choice for the job that you are doing. The tips help transfer the heat from the soldering iron to your work piece. Choose the widest tip possible to make it easier to get the largest contact area possible for the best heat transfer.
3. It’s all about the flux
Flux is used for many different functions in the soldering process: It cleans the metal by removing the contaminants and metal oxides; it keeps the surfaces oxide-free; and it acts as a wetting agent so that the solder spreads correctly on the surfaces.
Flux can come in different forms: organic or inorganic acid water-soluble, no clean or rosin. The best flux for your particular project depends on what you are trying to connect and what you want to achieve from the flux. Use a flux strong enough to remove the surface oxides, but is able to be cleaned off if required.
4. Apply heat properly
Make sure to sequence your steps to get the best soldering results. First, apply the solder iron tip to the joint. When the point of contact has enough heat, add solder and allow it to spread. If you hold the iron too long on an application, it can become overheated. Pull your iron away from the connection to finish up as soon as the solder has flowed into the seam.
5. Use the right solder for the job
The electronics industry will typically use lead-free resin or no-clean resin solder. A leaded solder is an option for a solder that is easier to melt. For example, leaded 60/40 solder is used for many jobs and applications but is not as popular because of the health concerns when using lead.
Try using the thinnest diameter of solder (or solder wire) you can get away with for your specific task. Using the thinnest solder reduces the chance of building too much solder into your joints.
6. Tin and clean your tips
Make sure to tin your tips which simply means to add some solder to coat the tip before making contact. And, clean your tips during your soldering sessions on a regular basis. By cleaning your tips throughout the process, it will help the iron transfer the heat as well as lengthen the lifespan of the tip.
7. Have the Proper Ventilation
When soldering, it is important to install good safety habits. If you regularly inhale solder fumes, it can be affect your health. Especially if you are using a leaded solder. Make sure you solder in a ventilated area that has a type of fan or other mechanism such as a solder fume extractor running.
8. Practice is key
While soldering is a simple process, it takes practice for it to become second nature. You can try training with simple circuits or even wire joints. Once you have soldered a few times, the process will become that much easier.
Of course, these are just a few tricks and tips to help you solder seamlessly. If you have any questions about soldering, feel free to contact our technical support team for guidance.
]]>Why Do You Need To Use Flux?
Flux is used for different functions in the soldering process: It cleans the metal by removing the contaminants and metal oxides; it keeps the surfaces oxide-free until the melted solder is covering the attachment area; and it acts as a wetting agent so that the solder spreads correctly on the surfaces.
Choosing the right chemical flux is critical to making a good solder joint. Flux can come in different forms: organic or inorganic acid water-soluble, no clean or rosin.
Flux is Necessary for Soldering
Flux is a necessary element of soldering. Soldering fills the gaps between electrical or mechanical workpieces so that a mechanical, thermal or even electric connection is created.
Flux removes the oxide layer so the solder can bond to the surfaces. Flux not only aids in the soldering process by removing dirt and films, but it also increases the wetting of the solder which can help it flow more smoothly.
What Are the Different Types of Flux?
1. Rosin Flux
The most basic soldering flux is the natural rosin that is derived from pine tar resin. Rosin is a collection of naturally occurring acids. When used for soldering, the clear rosin is dissolved in a solvent such as rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). This is called type R rosin flux.
2. No-Clean Flux
No-clean fluxes are usually made from natural rosin or have some synthetic resins. No clean fluxes are great for hand-soldering projects or any job when there won’t be any cleaning done which can save time and money. The benefit of a no-clean flux is that it won’t leave as much residue as most of the conventional R type flux and allows it to operate more smoothly without any corrosion.
3. Water Soluble Flux
Water soluble fluxes typically have water-soluble resins which should be removed using a water rinse. Some water-soluble fluxes are water-based solutions and therefore you won’t need an alcohol-based flux solution. All water soluble flux residues are corrosive and should be removed whenever used to ensure long-term reliability.
How Do You Choose The Right Flux For Your Job?
All fluxes have some acids and some of the flux will need to removed or cleaned off after you’re finished soldering. Make sure to pick a flux that is strong enough to clean off the oxides but not attack the parts afterwards.
Our classic 100 gel flux is excellent for soldering stained glass copper foil as well as copper sheet metal.
The best flux for your particular project depends on the metal surfaces you are trying to connect and what you want to achieve from the flux. Use a flux strong enough to remove the surface oxides, but is able to be cleaned off if required.
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What is Solder Made of Anyway?
Solder is a metal alloy and is usually made of tin and one or two other metals such as lead, silver or copper.
Solder comes in both lead and lead-free variations. Stained glass uses solid solder with external flux. Lead-free solders generally have higher melting points than leaded solders:
50% Tin/ 50% Lead
|
361 - 413 degrees F
|
60% Tin/ 40% Lead
|
361 - 372 degrees F
|
AQ Lead Free Alloy
|
403 - 453 degrees F
|
99.3% Tin /0.7% Copper
|
441 - 441 degrees F
|
Lead-free solder is the most commonly used type of solder
For electronics soldering, the most commonly used type of solder is lead-free rosin core solder. This type of solder is usually made up of a Tin/Copper alloy. You can also use leaded 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead) rosin core solder but it’s becoming less popular due to health concerns and regulations.
There are lead-free replacement solder alloys for every leaded soldering application, whether soldering electrical components or seam soldering as in stained glass.
How soldering works
Soldering is typically done with a soldering iron which can be in the shape of a pencil or a gun. The pencil iron is the most popular because it is easier to control. You can change the tip which makes it more versatile.
The process involves applying enough heat between the two surfaces being joined together. The trick is to heat work above the melting point of the solder. This enables the solder to flow into the joint on whatever mechanism you’re soldering. After the joint is formed, you’ll stop feeding solder before removing the soldering iron and let it cool off.
Unplug the iron, clean it with a sponge, and put it away for when you are ready to use it next. To clean the iron, you can use a wet sponge and rub your tips on both sides to remove any dirt or oxides.
If you use a high wattage iron, it doesn’t produce higher temperatures. A higher wattage iron is generally used to heat bigger components. The higher mass the tip, the higher wattage is needed.
Make sure to solder in well-ventilated workspaces. Try not to inhale the flux fumes and make sure to wear goggles or safety glasses.
The solder you want to use is generally determined by the project or job that you are working on and whether you need to use lead-free or a regular tin/lead solder.
If you aren’t sure the type of solder that is right for your project, our technical support team is always happy to help.
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